Why go
Knowing the terrain changes a visit more than memorizing a list of sights. Alfama, the castle hill and the upper districts are best approached as linked slopes, with the Tagus below as a reference line. A route that descends through one quarter can reveal the city’s layers more clearly than repeated climbs between isolated landmarks.
The full story
The traditional description of Lisbon as a city of seven hills belongs to a wider European habit of using a memorable number to describe hilly capitals. It should not be read as a technical map, but it captures an everyday fact: the city’s ridges and descents shape views, street layouts and effort. The Tagus provides the counterpoint, opening the eastern and southern horizon beyond the tightly built slopes. This geography helps make sense of the historic bairros. Alfama falls from Castelo de São Jorge toward the river through narrow lanes and small squares, while Baixa occupies a flatter rebuilt area below. Bairro Alto sits higher above the center, and the riverfront stretches outward toward Belém. For a first orientation, move from a high point toward the Tagus; the changing roofline and street width will show how topography organized the city.