Why go
The Palio explains why the Campo is more than a beautiful square. Ten of Siena's 17 contrade compete at a time, with riders in ward colors and a painted banner at stake. Understanding the procession, the race and the neighborhoods helps you read the city's flags even when no event is taking place.
The full story
The Palio is run in Piazza del Campo, where a dirt track is laid around the square. Ten horses and bareback riders represent ten of Siena's 17 contrade. A historical procession, the Corteo Storico, precedes the race; the riders then circle the Campo three times. The brief contest expresses the continuing rivalries and identities of the wards. Siena normally stages two Palios, one associated with the Madonna of Provenzano in July and one with the Assumption of Mary in August. The prize is a painted banner, or palio, commissioned for the race. Contrada colors and symbols appear throughout the streets, and a winning banner may later be displayed by its ward. The Campo hosted public games before the present form of horse race developed in the 17th century. That history explains why the event belongs so closely to the square. Outside race season, look at the Campo's slope and the mouths of its surrounding streets; they show how an everyday civic space becomes a ceremonial arena. Check the official calendar and access arrangements if you intend to attend.
Useful to know
- Check the official calendar and visitor arrangements before planning around a race.
- Outside race periods, use the Campo and contrada emblems to understand the event's setting.