Why go
In Isan, kai yang, som tam and khao niao form a useful meal combination: grilled chicken, sharp papaya salad and sticky rice. Southern menus show Malay and Chinese influences in dishes such as khao mok kai, fragrant chicken rice, and khanom chin nam ya, thin rice noodles with spicy fish sauce.
The full story
Isan cooking reflects links with Laos and Cambodia. A common combination brings together kai yang, grilled chicken; som tam, a sour and spicy salad of unripe papaya; and khao niao, sticky rice. Pla ra, fermented fish, can add a strong savoury note. Southern Thailand has another mix of influences, including Malay and Chinese food traditions. Khao mok kai cooks chicken and rice with spices such as cinnamon and turmeric, while khanom chin nam ya pairs thin rice noodles with a spicy fish-based sauce. A mild chicken broth and vinegar-dressed cucumber can accompany the rice dish. These examples are more useful than a single label for Thai food: they help explain why a meal in the northeast can feel quite different from one on the southern peninsula.