Stavanger.

Walk the residential streets west of Vågen for Stavanger's preserved wooden townscape. The appeal is in small architectural differences and the story of a district saved from demolition.

This is the place to read the old harbour city in its houses rather than in a museum case. Larger homes stand closer to the inner harbour, while smaller cottages appear farther out. Look up for the distinctive roof arches, and remember that these are still people's homes, not historic interiors open to wander through.

The wooden houses west of Vågen recall Stavanger's old harbour town. More substantial houses stand near the water, smaller cottages farther away. The district remains lived in, showing how historic buildings can stay ordinary homes. That outcome was far from certain after the Second World War. A plan for the city centre proposed replacing much of the old timber fabric with modern concrete buildings. City architect Einar Hedén argued for keeping part of the neighbourhood, and the council voted for conservation in 1956. Walk the streets with that decision in mind: the close-set façades and roof details are more than a picturesque backdrop. They are evidence of a choice to keep an older part of Stavanger in use. Respecting the residents is essential to seeing that story honestly.

• Notice how the houses change in size as you move away from the inner harbour.
• Look for the curved Stavanger arches on the roofs.
• Follow the cobbled stretch of Øvre Strandgate through the wooden streets.

Keep to public streets and give homes and gardens their privacy.

Take care on Øvre Strandgate's cobbles and slopes, especially in wet weather.

Continue towards the inner harbour to compare the preserved streets with Stavanger's waterfront.